It was sticker shock that made me turn from beef to pork. My pre-holiday trip to Costco to buy the Christmas roast created a price-point dilemma. For several years I’ve served a beef tenderloin roast, a prime option that is delicious, tender, and a cinch to carve. When I sashayed over to the petite pile of those log-shaped beauties, I was in for a blow. Even the smallest offering in the case was $182. Maybe in the past I bought choice instead of prime. The price tag had always hovered around half that much.
Within eyeshot, a much larger meat case housed an impressive pile of whole boneless pork loins, priced at $1.99 a pound, averaging about 10 pounds at a total of $20. I envisioned cutting the 19-inch loin into three parts, the center one to roast and two on either end to freeze.
Two cuts yields three roasts
Of course, you can just buy a pre-cut 3 1/2 to 4-pound center cut boneless pork loin at supermarkets and butcher shops. No problem. At my local Albertson’s they were priced at around $16.
But if you buy a whole loin, it can produce three roasts. Make two cuts, each next to the center portion that is approximately 7- to 9-inches long. That center roast can be star of a holiday spread. The boned pork roasts at either end are bonuses: the shoulder end, often labeled blade end, and the hip end, often labeled sirloin end roast. They can be frozen for later use (New Year’s Day pozole comes to mind).
Grandma’s temp
Outdated cookbooks or recipes from great grandma often recommend cooking pork to 170 degrees (or even higher). Roast a pork loin to 145 degrees and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes before carving. Don’t worry, trichinae are killed at 137 degrees. The pink color doesn’t mean that the meat is undercooked. When pork is cooked to the recommended internal temperature of 145 degrees, it is normal to see pink-tinged meat in the center.
Buy a good instant-read thermometer. You can test your thermometer’s accuracy by placing the tip in boiling water. It should read 212 degrees.
Guest size: One serves six
I’m serving 8 guests this Christmas. Two are children and one is vegetarian, so a 3 1/2 to 4-pound no-waste center-cut pork loin is perfect. If your guest list is bigger, you can cook up two roasts.
Merry Christmas! Ho, ho, ho!
Tuscan Pork Loin Roast
Yield: About 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 4-pound boneless pork loin, fat trimmed leaving 1/4-inch layer of fat
Coarse salt
8 garlic cloves, grated or minced
1/2 cup roughly chopped fennel fronds
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, crushed; see cook’s notes
1 teaspoon grated or finely minced lemon zest, colored portion only
2 tablespoons roughly chopped rosemary, plus a few extra sprigs
2 tablespoons roughly chopped sage, plus a few extra sprigs
2 tablespoons roughly chopped marjoram, plus a few extra sprigs
1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
Optional for serving: braised red cabbage
Cook’s notes: Most often fennel seeds are sold whole. Grind them in a spice mill, or place in zipper-style plastic bag and pound with the bottom of a pan or a rolling pin.
PROCEDURE
1. Season pork generously on all sides with salt. In small bowl, combine garlic, fennel fronds, fennel seeds, lemon zest, the chopped rosemary, sage, and marjoram, the crushed red pepper, black pepper, and olive oil. Rub and pat mixture all over meat. Press rosemary, sage, and marjoram sprigs against the roast, and use a few lengths of cotton string to secure them. Cover the roast with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours, or preferably overnight. Remove plastic wrap and bring to room temperature before roasting, about 45 minutes.
2. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Place roast in shallow baking pan and cook, uncovered, for about 50 to 60 minutes, until the meat is nicely browned and thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the roast registers 145 degrees. Let rest for at least 15 to 20 minutes before slicing. Remove string.
3. Serve sliced, warm or at room temperature. If desired, accompany with braised red cabbage
Source: Adapted from “David Tanis Market Cooking” by David Tanis (Artisan, $40)
Pork Loin Roast Stuffed with Spinach, Mushrooms and Herb Cheese
Yield: About 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
Aluminum foil, for lining pan, plus two (3-by-9-inch) strips folded into 3-inch squares
5 ounces fresh clean mushrooms, trimmed or about 1 3/4 cups thickly sliced
2 teaspoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1 (3 1/2- to 4-pound) boneless center-cut pork loin, fat trimmed leaving thin layer of fat
About 30 fresh baby spinach leaves, thick stems removed, plus more for stuffing in end openings
1/2 bunch fresh basil, larger leaves preferred
6 1/2 ounces cold, soft herb and garlic cheese, such as Boursin
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Cotton string or butcher string
Garnish: Sprigs of Italian parsley and/or basil
PROCEDURE
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position; preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line 9-by-13-inch roasting pan with aluminum foil. Finely chop mushrooms. The easiest way is to place them in a food processor fitted with the metal blade; pulse 3-5 times or until finely chopped. Or chop by hand. Heat olive oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat and add mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until all liquid has evaporated, and mushrooms are starting to brown nicely, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cool.
2. Pat pork dry with paper towels. Position roast fat side up on cutting board. Along the long lengthwise side, insert knife two-thirds of way up from bottom of roast along 1 long side and cut horizontally, stopping 1/2 inch before edge to create flap. Open up flap. At hinge, cut down into thicker portion of roast, stopping 1/2 inch from bottom. Pivot knife parallel to cutting board and cut horizontally in opposite direction, stopping 1/2 inch before edge, to create second flap. Open up this flap and lay meat flat.
3. Spread mushroom mixture over meat, leaving a 1-inch margin around meat edge with no filling. Cover with double layer of spinach and a layer of fresh basil (reserve some spinach leaves to use to stuff ends of roll). Spoon on soft cheese, dropping in spoonfuls, placing most of it in the center and leaving a 2-inch margin around the edge. Sprinkle with Parmesan.
4. Roll up lengthwise and tie at 2-inch intervals with string. Roll several spinach leaves into two bundles and tuck one bundle into each end to push in the cheese. Repeat at opposite end. If any cheese is exposed in the lengthwise seam, tuck leaves of either spinach or basil into the seam to encase the cheese. Place a folded foil square at both ends and tie with string into place lengthwise to secure. Place in prepared roasting pan fat side up. Season top of roast with salt and pepper.
5. Roast 50-55 minutes or until internal temperature of meat (not cheese) is 145 degrees. Let meat rest for 20 to 25 minutes. If some of the cheese escapes during cooking, spoon a little into the cavity. Cut into 1-inch slices and remove string. I advise cutting and plating in the kitchen. The filling can be oozy, but it very delicious. Cut a slice and then transfer to plate using a spatula. If desired, garnish with Italian parsley and/or basil leaves.
Bacon-Wrapped Pork Loin with Dreamy Roasted Potatoes
Yield: about 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
12 ounces sliced bacon, (medium thick slices, not thick cut)
3 1/2-pound boneless center-cut pork loin, fat trimmed leaving thin layer of fat
2 teaspoons ground fennel seeds; see cook’s notes
Coarse salt and ground black pepper
2 pounds small potatoes, red skinned or Baby Dutch Yellow, or a mix of both, unpeeled, halved
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided use
Cook’s notes: Most often fennel seeds are sold whole. Grind them in a spice mill, or place in zipper-style plastic bag and pound with the bottom of a pan or a rolling pin.
PROCEDURE
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and preheat to 375 degrees. Using half of the bacon, arrange in single layer in a 12-inch skillet and using medium heat, cook just long enough for fat portion turns from white to grayish (and bacon is pliable), about 2 to 3 minutes (you don’t want the edges to significantly curl). Place on rimmed baking sheet lined with paper towels and repeat with remaining bacon, also placing it on rimmed baking sheet. Cool slightly.
2. Line a second rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Pat pork dry with paper towels. Rub with fennel and season with salt and pepper. Place pork in center of prepared baking sheet. Lay bacon over top of pork, starting at one end and slightly overlapping slices until entire top is covered and tucking ends underneath roast.
3. Toss potatoes with 2 tablespoons oil in bowl and season with salt and pepper. Brush foil on baking sheet around pork with 1 tablespoon oil. Place potatoes, cut side down, on oiled baking sheet around pork. Roast in preheated oven about 50 minutes or until pork registers 145 degrees. Allow to rest 10 to 15 minutes before cut into slices. Serve with potatoes.
Cooking question? Contact Cathy Thomas at cathythomascooks@gmail. com